One Of The Most Impressive Things I've Ever Seen

So the Romans were here in the second century (undoubtedly subjugating the indigenous people), building temples and baths, forts, bridges, and marketplaces...literally making themselves at home. 

Somewhere along the way in the mid-sixth century, the Visigoths discovered the warm climate, a mighty river, and a religion they could conquer. They moved the Romans along and built an Episcopalian Basilica in honor of San Vicente. It was very pretty - they even kept some of the Roman tile work and foundation.

Looking down beneath the floor of the mosque - you can see the older foundation and tile work

But in 786 AD a very rich, very powerful sultan (the king of Al Andalus) bought the whole lot. He was going to tear it down and build an enormous Muslim mosque, but he decided he liked some of the previous work, so he simply began enlarging what was there. And it was beautiful.

There are about 850 of these columns/arches in the mosque.

Over time the Mosque was expanded to its current size by various sultans, bishops, and kings; it's now about 24,000 square meters. Big. Huge. Hard to get your head around.

Alright, I'm standing at the far eastern wall. If you can enlarge this picture, you'll see the metal bars of the niche directly opposite me in the mosque. Can you see 'em? Yeah, I didn't think so. It's sooo far away.

So here are the Muslims, kickin' it in old Cordoba. They share real estate and community with the Jews, and even allow some Christian sects to prosper in the city. They're all just gettin' along. And then Ferdinand and Isabella (yep those guys) reconquer Spain and kick everyone to the curb. 

They really like the space the mosque offers and aren't terribly inclined to tear it down, so they just knock out some of the ceiling and BAM, they build a cathedral smack dab in the middle of the mosque.

Flash forward, the mosque is now a Catholic church, mass is held everyday. As part of the culture, the church strives to pay honor to the Muslim roots that allow the church to be a UNESCO site. While the synagogue and the Jewish Quarter in Cordoba have been preserved and are open to the public, there are no Jews in Cordoba.

Outside the mosque are lovely gardens full of the same orange trees we've seen throughout our trip.

We're still looking for that craft beer bar - we have one in our sites, but so far, it's never open when we pass. Maybe tonight? Tomorrow will be a long day: we're heading to Jerez for a sherry tasting, lunch, and a winery tour. Oh boy!